Senecio mandraliscae

senecio mandraliscae blue chalk sticks identification card and care guide
Pin this for later

Senecio mandraliscae Care Guide

Growing Season:

Winter

Dormant Season:

Summer

Common Name: 'Blue Chalk Sticks'

About Senecio mandraliscae

Senecio mandraliscae is more commonly known as ‘Blue Chalk Sticks.’ It is an excellent groundcover as it spreads quickly. It looks great in rock gardens. 

Senecio mandraliscae needs full sunfull sun direct sunlight for at least 8 hours of the day and can handle it all day. If grown indoors, it will almost certainly etiolate unless you have a very strong grow light. 

It grows quickly in the fall and spring, so these would be the best times to take cuttings. Be careful when taking cuttings, though, as the sap is toxic and can be irritating to the skin and should not be ingested either. White dandelion-like flowers bloom in the summer months. 

If you live in a very humid area, be sure to amendamendment Material added to a soil to improve its physical properties which create a healthier environment for the roots your soil heavily with inorganicinorganic not consisting of or deriving from living matter amendmentamendment Material added to a soil to improve its physical properties which create a healthier environment for the roots as Senecio mandraliscae doesn’t like much humidity. 

Where to buy Senecio mandraliscae

Community

Join us in the SUCCULENTdotCARE Facebook Group to share pictures, ask questions and talk about all things succulent!

Instagram

Follow me on Instagram for more succulent pictures and funny succulent memes to get you through the day.

If you found any of this info helpful, please share it on your favorite social network! I truly appreciate it!
Share on pinterest
Pinterest
Share on facebook
Facebook
Share on twitter
Twitter
Where to next?

Back to Senecio

Back to Succulent Types

Over to Care Guides

Over to Succulent Deals

Echeveria prolifica

echeveria prolifica succulent plant identification card and care guide
Share on pinterest
Pin this for later

Echeveria prolifica Care Guide

Growing Season:
Summer

Dormant Season:
Winter

About Echeveria prolifica

Echeveria prolifica has such a fitting name because it reproduces prolifically by spreading babies on long stolonsstolon Sucker or runner; a prostrate basal branch, above or below ground, which can root and produce new stems or plantlets. from its stem. Be sure to plant Echeveria prolifica in a  wider pot so that it has plenty of space to spread out. You could even plant it in the ground in zones 10+ and it will quickly form a dense ground cover. 

It also propagates easily from dropped leaves. The leaves do pop off at the slightest touch so be careful when handling it. 

Flowering happens early in the spring when yellow flowers appear in clusters on the ends of long stems. The stems are also covered in leaves which you can propagatepropagate breed specimens of a plant by natural processes from the parent stock like taking stem cuttings, leaf cuttings or seeds as well!

In cooler weather and periods of drought, Echeveria prolifica takes on a beautiful blush pink coloring on its tips. This is definitely one of my favorite succulents to collect and propagate. 

Where to buy Echeveria prolifica

Have an Echeveria prolifica? Join us in the Facebook group below to share your succulent pictures and questions!

Community

Join us in the SUCCULENTdotCARE Facebook Group to share pictures, ask questions and talk about all things succulent!

Instagram

Follow me on Instagram for more succulent pictures and funny succulent memes to get you through the day.

If you found any of this info helpful, please share it on your favorite social network! I truly appreciate it!
Share on pinterest
Pinterest
Share on facebook
Facebook
Share on twitter
Twitter
Where to next?

Crassula ‘Petite Bicolor’

crassula petite bicolor aka sedum little missy succulent plant identification and care guide
Share on pinterest
Pin this for later

Crassula 'Petite Bicolor' Care Guide

Growing Season:
Winter

Dormant Season:
Summer

About Crassula 'Petite Bicolor'

Crassula ‘Petite Bicolor’ is the correct name for what many people call Sedum ‘Little Missy’.  It is the dwarf, variegatedvariegated A naturally occurring or viral induced mutation, which appears as stripes or whole sections of tissue that are without chlorophyll. Variegated varieties are often prized for the attractiveness of the markings caused by the mutation. form of Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis. 

Crassula ‘Petite Bicolor’ is an excellent filler in container gardens and spreads across the ground like wildfire. Since it is so tender, I like to place mine underneath taller succulents that provide shade. It is the perfect fairy garden succulent with its heart-shaped leaves. 

Propagating Crassula ‘Petite Bicolor’ is as easy as picking off pieces by hand and sticking them on the dirt. The cuttings will root really easily! In the summer months, expect the cutest little pink blooms. 

General Guide to Crassula Care

Most of the 200 or so succulent species in the genusgenus a principal taxonomic category that ranks above species and below family, and is denoted by a capitalized Latin name Crassula make nice low succulent shrubs in your garden, do well as container plants, and do ok as houseplants. Many are widely grown and not very hard to cultivatecultivate prepare and use for gardening. Crassula species thrive in bright light and good ventilation.

Crassula plants originate all over the world, but most of the varieties in cultivation almost always come from the Eastern Cape of South Africa. Their natural habitathabitat The natural home of a plant. is in semi-aridsemi-arid Semi-arid climates get about twice as much rainfall than arid deserts, which get less than 10 inches per year. deserts in rocky or gravelly soil.

Like with other succulents, if you keep your crassula indoors, you need to mimic their ideal outdoor environment as much as possible. This means getting lots of sunlight near your sunniest window or underneath grow lights if it won’t be able to get at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. You’ll know if your crassula aren’t getting enough light when they start to stretch out, lose their compact shape and become pale in color.

Succulents typically die when brought indoors because of a lack of ventilation. Stagnantstagnant having no current or flow and often having an unpleasant smell as a consequence air causes a buildup of harmful bacteria and fungus which will kill your crassula. Setting up a fan near your plant shelving is a great idea to keep the air flowing constantly as if it were outdoors. A light breeze is all that it takes to keep pests away.

The soil isn’t going to dry out as quickly indoors as it would outdoors, so be sure to use lots of amendmentamendment Material added to a soil to improve its physical properties which create a healthier environment for the roots in your soil mix and keep an eye on how long it takes for them to start showing signs of thirst before watering again. See my guide on soil and soil amendments for succulents.

Crassula succulents grow best in sandy or gritty, mostly inorganicinorganic not consisting of or deriving from living matter substratesubstrate the natural environment in which an organism lives, or the surface or medium on which an organism grows or is attached like most other succulents. Make sure your soil is at least 50% gritty amendment so it drains quickly because, as we know, succulents don’t like their roots to stay in moist soil for very long. They’re quite sensitive to root rot when waterlogged. Good drainage in your pots is very important as these plants are prone to root rot if left in waterlogged soil. Be sure to check out my guide on succulent soil.

Feed crassula during their growing season from mid spring to early fall with a balancedbalanced referring to the nutrient content or NPK numbers. An example of balanced fertilizer has 15-15-15 on the label. fertilizer that is poor in nitrogen. Dilute it to at least half the strength recommended on the label. Do not feed plants during winter or in the hottest part of the summer when they are dormant. See my guide on fertilizing succulents.

Crassula species are very drought tolerant plants, which means they can handle longer periods without water. Being drought tolerant does not, however, mean low water. Water them regularly in the growing season during spring and fall, but avoid water-logging and let your soil dry between waterings. Water sparingly in the winter as temperatures get colder because crassula can lose their roots if the soil stays cold and soggy for too long. The lower the temperature gets, the less watering is needed. If you grow crassula in a container, bottom watering is helpful. See my guide on how to water succulents.

Crassula does well in dappled sun, but can handle some shade, too. In shade the leaves color will stay more green, while in full sunfull sun direct sunlight for at least 8 hours of the day conditions the leaves can develop a pink/orange/red stress color. In the summer keep your crassula cool and provide some shelter from direct sunlight during the hottest part of the day. See my guide to how much light succulents need.

Crassula plants are susceptible to mealy bugs and sometimes scale. They don’t handle extreme cold or hot temperatures very well and do best in a mild, Mediterranean climate where frosts are a rare occurrence.

Crassula propagatepropagate breed specimens of a plant by natural processes from the parent stock like taking stem cuttings, leaf cuttings or seeds the easiest from cuttings. They also propagate from seed and sometimes from leaves depending on the species. The best time to take leaf cuttings is in spring and summer. Take your stem cuttings just below a leaf nodenode The point where a leaf, shoot or root grows from a stem and stick it in dry succulent soil. Don’t water until roots have formed. You’ll know roots have formed by giving it a gentle tug. If there’s any resistance, you’ve got roots! See my guide to propagating stem cuttings.

The name crassula comes from the Latin word crassus, meaning thick.

Community

Join us in the SUCCULENTdotCARE Facebook Group to share pictures, ask questions and talk about all things succulent!

Instagram

Follow me on Instagram for more succulent pictures and funny succulent memes to get you through the day.

If you found any of this info helpful, please share it on your favorite social network! I truly appreciate it!
Share on pinterest
Pinterest
Share on facebook
Facebook
Share on twitter
Twitter

Echeveria desmetiana

echeveria desmetiana succulent plant care guide and identification card

Echeveria desmetiana Care Guide

Growing Season:
Summer

Dormant Season:
Winter

More about Echeveria desmetiana

The official name according to the International Crassulaceae Network is Echeveria desmetiana. There are, however, a couple of other names is goes by like Echeveria peacockii and Echeveria subsessilis. At the bottom of this page is a link to the ICN so you can read up about the naming drama in the botanical world. 

Anyways, Echeveria desmetiana is one succulent that I just can’t get enough of. It produces offsets from its base like crazy during the summer growing season and the contrast between the pale leaves and bright orange/red flowers is dramatic. 

It is considered sessile or stemless and given the proper amount of light will stay low to the ground. 

Most sellers on Etsy are calling this one Echeveria subsessilis, so that’s what I’ve linked to. There are very few listings for E. peacockii or E. desmetiana (correct name).

General Guide to Echeveria Care

These beauties are one of the most popular succulents for beginners and experienced gardeners alike. There are hundreds of echeveria species, hybrids and cultivars which makes them a fun succulent to collect. Their origin is mostly from Mexico and the rest from Central America, South America and the United States.

Indoor echeveria kept as houseplants generally won’t need watering as frequently as the ones kept outdoors. Water them once the soil dries out AND they show signs of thirst. In the winter, they can go longer in between waterings when they are dormant.

When caring for echeveria indoors, be sure to give them lots and lots of light- natural or supplemented by grow lights. Most echeverias aren’t the best succulent to grow indoors as house plants because they need so much sun to keep your echeveria from growing tall. They become weaker and unhealthy when they start to lose their compact rosette shape. 

In addition to lots of light, be sure to provide your indoor echeveria with lots of ventilation. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to set a fan up near them to keep air flowing all the time. Stagnantstagnant having no current or flow and often having an unpleasant smell as a consequence air is the perfect environment for harmful bacteria and fungus which can lead to rot.

Never let the soil remain waterlogged by using a very porous, gritty, well draining soil in a pot with a drainage hole. Amendamendment Material added to a soil to improve its physical properties which create a healthier environment for the roots your soil with at least 50% inorganicinorganic not consisting of or deriving from living matter amendmentamendment Material added to a soil to improve its physical properties which create a healthier environment for the roots. Echeveria are sensitive to root rot when over watered. See the Guide to Soil for Succulents for more information about the different amendments that people use for succulents and where you can buy them. Echeveria can tolerate long periods without water as it is stored in their fleshy leaves and stem.

Water echeveria varieties a little more during their active summer growing season between March and September approximately. Be sure to let the soil dry out between waterings. Water sparingly in the winter when they are dormant. They will not be able to take in as much water through their roots when they are in a dormant state. In their natural habitathabitat The natural home of a plant., they have long periods of drought between heavy rain events so try to mimic this when you are watering. 

Always avoid getting the leaves wet especially in humid areas to keep water from remaining trapped between the leaves. This will lead to rot. Bottom watering works well in the case of potted echeveria. It takes a LOT longer to kill an echeveria from dehydration than overwatering, so always err on the side of underwatering.  

The more light your echeveria gets, the more brilliant its colors will become. During the cooler months, their colors really get dramatic because you’ll be watering them less as well. 

 Bending leaves and stretching stems indicate low light levels. This is also known as etiolation. Bending and stretching are their way of trying to reach for more light by increasing their surface area. To fix this, gradually increase the amount of light over a few days to a week to avoid sunburn. Putting an echeveria in full sunlight abruptly will cause irreversible sun damage. 

If the etiolation is severe, you will need to behead your echeveria, let the cut end calluscallus The tougher tissue that forms on or around a cut wound. Letting the cut end of a stem or leaf dry before planting. and replant it in dry succulent soil. Give it the proper amount of light to avoid etiolation again. From there, you can propagatepropagate breed specimens of a plant by natural processes from the parent stock like taking stem cuttings, leaf cuttings or seeds the lower leaves and babies will form on the remaining stem.

Propagation of your echeveria can happen by leaf, seeds and stem cuttings. Be sure that the leaves make a clean break from the stem nodenode The point where a leaf, shoot or root grows from a stem if propagating leaves. A mature echeveria will have more propagation success than a young one.

Generally, no. Echeveria are not monocarpicmonocarpic A succulent that dies after one bloom. Examples are Sempervivum and Agave species. like sempervivum, aeonium and agave. They will bloom yearly in the spring and summer with long arching flower stalks that have several flowers at the ends. Their small, brightly colored flowers will last for a few weeks and will attract hummingbirds and other pollinators to your outdoor succulent garden. The energy needed to create a flower stalk can be taxing on your echeveria, so you may notice the leaves starting to look a little shabby. This is normal and once the flower stalks are removed, your echeveria will begin to perk up again. I actually cut the bloom stalks off right before they flower because I prefer the energy to go to making new leaves rather than flowers. I also find that the leaves on bloom stalks are more likely to propagate successfully so I remove those as well. See my Guide to Propagating Leaves for my step-by-step leaf propagation process. 

I did mention that they GENERALLY don’t die after flowering. On occasion, echeveria will throw out a terminal inflorescenceinflorescence the complete flower head of a plant including stems, stalks, bracts, and flowers (flower stalk) from the very very center of the plant. When this happens, the echeveria will die after flowering. In my experience, the echeveria varieties that have given me terminal blooms are Echeveria ‘Afterglow’ and E. ‘Blue Sky.’

Fertilize echeveria only during their summer growing period with a fertilizer low in nitrogen, balancedbalanced referring to the nutrient content or NPK numbers. An example of balanced fertilizer has 15-15-15 on the label. NPK numbers and diluted to at least half strength of what is recommended on the label.

Echeveria are prone to mealy bugs. At the first sight of mealy bugs, pick them off with a small paintbrush dipped in isopropyl alcohol and treat the soil with a systemic insecticidesystemic insecticide distributed systemically throughout the whole plant. When insects feed on the plant, they ingest the insecticide.. Quarantine any affected plants so the mealy bugs don’t spread. Most echeveria problems, however, are because of too much water and not enough light.

Echeveria are rose shaped plants and can send out offsets horizontally from their stems via stolonsstolon Sucker or runner; a prostrate basal branch, above or below ground, which can root and produce new stems or plantlets.. When planted in the ground, echeveria can form wide mounds around the mother plant. 

There are many echeveria types and their thick foliage ranges from powdery, fuzzy, smooth edges, wrinkled edges to bumpy surfaces.

Echeveria can withstand temperatures down to about 20°F (USDA Zones 9-10) outdoors. They can handle a very light frost, but definitely can’t handle consistently freezing temperatures. 

The name Echeveria comes from the Mexican botanical artist Atanasio Echeverria y Godoy by the French botanist Augustin Pyramus deCandolle. Echeverria y Godoy produced thousands of botanical illustrations while exploring Mexico and Central America. 

(Source: https://www.smgrowers.com/)

Do you have an Echeveria desmetiana? Share your pictures or any questions you might have about your succulents in the SUCCULENTdotCARE community below!

Community

Join us in the SUCCULENTdotCARE Facebook Group to share pictures, ask questions and talk about all things succulent!

Instagram

Follow me on Instagram for more succulent pictures and funny succulent memes to get you through the day.

More about Echeveria desmetiana

Sedum dasyphyllum major ‘Himalayan Skies’

sedum dasyphyllum major succulent plant care guide and identification card also known as himalayan skies sedum

Sedum dasyphyllum major 'Himalayan Skies' Care Guide

Growing Season:
Winter

Dormant Season:
Summer

About Sedum dasyphyllum major 'Himalayan Skies'

Sedum dasyphyllum major ‘Himalayan Skies’ is a beautiful, blue green, low-growing succulent that can handle freezing weather down to USDA Zone 7! 

In container gardens, Sedum dasyphyllum major ‘Himalayan Skies’ spills over the sides ever so slightly. It propagates easily by stem cuttings and leaves. It also makes a great succulent for fairy gardens.

General Guide to Sedum Care

The key to sedum succulent care is leaving them alone. Seriously. Few succulents require less attention than sedum. They are a diverse genusgenus a principal taxonomic category that ranks above species and below family, and is denoted by a capitalized Latin name native to higher elevations and thrive in rocky, mountainous environments where many other plants would die. Many sedum species are referred to as stonecrop because they appear to grow right out of the rocks. 

Their active growing season is in the cooler spring and fall months so be sure to water them regularly during this time. When they are dormant in the summer, don’t be surprised if they generally look kinda shabby or are more sensitive to excessive heat.

Sedums propagatepropagate breed specimens of a plant by natural processes from the parent stock like taking stem cuttings, leaf cuttings or seeds freely by fallen leaves as well as by seeds and stem cuttings. They spread quickly on the ground, so they make covering slopes a breeze. Sedums typically have shallow root systems and grow best when crowded in groups. The best time to propagate sedum stem cuttings is after they have flowered.

If you are growing your sedum indoors in containers, be sure to give them as much sun as possible by placing them near a sunny window or under grow lights to prevent them from stretching. Most types of sedum can handle some shade, but do need lots of light.

Sedum are some of the hardiest succulents there are. Many sedum varieties can survive temps down to -10°F (USDA Zone 6) although they’d do best if kept in a frost free environment.

Sedum succulents thrive in gritty, inorganic soil mixes. The more grit, the better when it comes to sedum as their natural habitathabitat The natural home of a plant. is on rocky ledges in the mountains. Never let the soil your sedum is planted in become waterlogged and make sure your pots always have a drainage hole so you can properly water using the drench and dry method. See the Guide to Soil for Succulents for more information about the different amendments that people use for their succulents and where you can buy them.

They seriously are low maintenance and don’t like strong fertilizers. If you do fertilize them, do it while they are healthy, actively growing and dilute dilute dilute! Also be sure you choose a fertilizer which is low in nitrogen. Make sure to thoroughly water your sedum after you fertilize because they are susceptible to burning.

They can go longer between waterings than other succulent varieties as they store lots of moisture in their fat leaves. Make sure your pots have a drainage hole so that you can use the drench and dry method of watering. Avoid getting water on the leaves especially in humid areas because any trapped water can cause rot to occur. Sedum can be particularly susceptible to root rot when left in wet, soggy soil so make sure they are well ventilated and in gritty soil, especially in humid areas.

They aren’t very heat tolerant, but love the sun and need at least 6 hours of it every day. If you’re in a particularly hot area, protect them from the harsh rays of the sun during the hottest part of the day. They do need lots of light in order to maintain their colorful leaves. They will turn green if kept in low light. Keep them in the brightest light possible to avoid stretching as when they stretch out, or etiolate, they become weaker and susceptible to pests and disease. Do not expose your sedum to the sun abruptly. Doing so can cause irreversible sunburn. Slowly acclimate it over the course of a week or two. 

If you’re growing sedum indoors, be sure to provide it with lots of ventilation because stagnantstagnant having no current or flow and often having an unpleasant smell as a consequence air leads to a buildup of harmful bacteria and fungus which can lead to rot. A fan and open shelving would be helpful here.

They are prone to aphids, slugs and snails. Fungus gnats are also a pest that hampers sedum and is a sign that your soil is too damp.

Sedum comes from the Latin word “sedeo” which means “to sit.” This is a fitting name because sedum are fantastic ground covers and trail over rocks and walls.

Sedum comes in a huge variety of forms including long trailing types like Burro’s Tail or creeping ground cover like sedum spurium. Sedum dendroideum is even tree-like and grows upright. Their leaves range from thick and fleshy to small and thin. Their flowers generally have five petals and the are known to attract butterflies, bees and other pollinators.

No, sedum are not monocarpicmonocarpic A succulent that dies after one bloom. Examples are Sempervivum and Agave species. succulents. See my guide to identifying death blooms.

Today, sedum succulents are being used as “green roofs” and are planted on top of buildings to provide insulation, a habitat for wildlife, and to lower urban air temperatures. They also reduce stormwater runoff.

Community

Join us in the SUCCULENTdotCARE Facebook Group to share pictures, ask questions and talk about all things succulent!

Instagram

Follow me on Instagram for more succulent pictures and funny succulent memes to get you through the day.